Baden Baden - Ahhhh

Once the trauma of finding the hotel was over, we discovered that Baden Baden is a charming town in the valley of the Black Forest. We knew that the town is known for its mineral baths and had hoped to arrive in time to go to a spa. Well….we hit the jackpot. The hotel staff recommended Caracalla Spa – a short walk away. We grabbed our swim suits and walked through the charming village of Baden Baden. There were so many cute shops that it was hard to keep walking. The confectioners’ shops were filled with beautiful Easter creations – chocolate rabbits, bunnies, chickens, lambs and every type of chocolate egg you can image. They were beautiful – and – I resisted buying anything. It was a test of will! But we were on a mission to find the Spa.


Caracalla Spa (www.caracalla.de) is situated on a slight rise above the city and has an imposing entrance. We had no idea how it worked, whether we needed a reservation, or what our options might be. There were lots of types of massages and other treatments. We just took our chances and walked in. Even after talking with the staff, we still weren’t clear what this was about. No massages were available in our timeframe but we could still buy a ticket to enter…..but to do what? We bought the tickets anyway and started to navigate our way through a maze of instructions about changing rooms and lockers. Once that was solved, we took our towels and followed the crowd with the hope that they knew more than we. They did.

We emerged into a very large round room with a high domed, coffered ceiling. It gave the impression of a Roman temple, but inside were large, blue pools of water with fountains throughout. The main pool was divided into smaller areas in concentric circles within the larger pool. People were everywhere – large, small, young, old – going in and out of the pools. Couples were everywhere clearly enjoying the water and each other.


I put the first foot into the water to be greeted by complete warmth. It felt fabulous! We waded and swam through the warm water and let fountains of water pour over our heads. That’s when we noticed the outdoor pools. Like the indoor pools, there were two circular outdoor areas. We swam through the indoor/outdoor doorway into a large, warm pool. The temperature outside was about 45 degrees but sitting in the warm water, it felt like a dream. Again, there were large jets of water spraying down from the sides. They pulsed over my back and neck like the best ever (sorry, Karen!) massage. A few more trips and I’m sure the knots in my shoulders would dissolve. We laid back into the built-in seats and rested our heads along the edge. What a feeling! – Body enveloped by warm water, a cool breeze blowing and a few cold rain drops falling on my face. Wow. What a way to spend an afternoon. By this time, we decided to try everything they had. Next up was the other outdoor pool. When we got in, we realized that it had a strong current around the perimeter of the circular pool. We were able to simply lay back and float along with the current around and around the pool. We giggled all along the way. It was too much fun!

As for the other doors, there was an aroma therapy sauna – basically a wet sauna infused with aromatic oils. There was a salt sauna that was supposed to help your breathing, and, my favorite, the grotto. A pool with very warm water and large water fall in the middle. It was heaven to just sit there in the warmth. I stood under the waterfall and let the pounding water pummel my shoulders and back. It felt so good!

There was only one area that we didn’t try. It was a Roman spa and clothing was not allowed. There were signs at the entrance that swimsuits were not allowed and that – get this – children under 14 must be accompanied by their parents. Hmmm. Apparently, fifteen year olds and up could go in anytime. Hmmm. I got close enough to investigate – Mike wouldn’t go near. The doors were heavy, frosted glass, but I could see people disrobing just on the other side, white butts gleaming through the glass.

By the time we tried everything (except the Roman spa) – twice – we had spent two hours there. What a fabulous facility! Baden Baden is a charming town, but the mineral baths made it a special experience.