Lovely Lake Como but No George

There are few places that moved me like Lake Como. It is simply stunning. It’s a three-fingered lake that totals 25 miles in length but is only 2.5 miles at the widest part – basically, it’s long and thin. Created by glaciers and up to 1200’ deep, it is surrounded by mountains that separate Italy from Switzerland (and where Mussolini was captured and killed as he tried to escape over the border). The lake provides constant humidity so that the air hangs heavy with moisture. That moisture makes the mountains appear as layers of blue haze. Each succeeding mountain becomes a little more pale blue and misty. In the early mornings, the sun turns the new sky behind the mountains a pale pink that gradually gives way to blue again. It’s like a classical Renaissance landscape painting and, indeed, this area has been the subject of paintings for centuries. I’ve been in mountain ranges that soar above you and create feelings of majesty and grandeur. Instead, these mountains, while majestic and grand, created, for me, a feeling of peace and comfort. You simply want to sit, relax and let the day flow by. Which is exactly what we did….well, almost.


Mike and I, Maggie and Enser stayed in Bellagio, one of several pretty, little communities that ring the lake. Bellagio, built on the hillside so that the shops tumble down along the steep stairways, was filled with wonderful shops and restaurants and we took full advantage. All around the town flowers were blooming. Hydrangeas from pink and blue to deep purples, were in full bloom. In addition to growing plants to sell all over Italy, we discovered that the Como area is known for its silks. In fact, Missoni and Versace have manufacturing facilities just outside of town. Consequently, there was no shortage of shops selling beautiful silks – scarves, in particular. After shopping in Verona, I’d sworn off any more purchases but that was before a gorgeous blue silk and cashmere scarf nearly leapt out of the shop window into my bag screaming, “Take me home! Take me home!” What could I do? Thankfully, Maggie was as captivated by the shops as I. It was fun to have a partner to “oooo” and “ahhh” with!

The beauty of the lake draws you to it. There are boats ready to accommodate that urge. One day we took a public ferry across the lake to Tremezzo where we visited Villa Carlotta, one of the many luxurious villas situated on the lake front. Villa Carlotta was lovely but the gardens were even more impressive. The gardens were developed by a connoisseur of plants and featured a wide variety from cactus to tropicals and with brightly flowering bedding plants interspersed. There was even an arbor of orange and lemon trees with fruit hanging over your head. The four of us took turns taking each others’ picture with fruit, fountains, grottos, flowers and mountains! After a soothing lunch at a waterfront restaurant, we boarded the ferry and enjoyed a leisurely ride through other villages back to Bellagio.

Another day we took a boat tour along the lake front with a guide who told us about the various villas. Needless to say, the villas are stunning with their warm orange-colored stucco walls, shutters and graceful twin staircases to the water. Most are still privately owned by well-to-do people from Milan. The villas serve as their summer home. One villa had been built by the Pirelli family. Tire sales must have been good! We passed by one particular three-story villa that had recently sold. It was attractive but not of the caliber of some. It sold for $10,000,000……per floor!

One of the most stunning villas was owned by Richard Branson of Virgin Airlines. The villa is surrounded by classic Cyprus trees that act as towering pillars framing the house. There was a pool and several smaller buildings for the staff. The property can only be reached by water so privacy is assured. It’s a rental property. In case you’re interested, it goes for $250,000 per week.

On the same tour, we visited Villa del Balbianello. It sits on the tip of a spit of land near Lenno. The lake is visible from all sides, and the villa fits into a slope so that it extends more than three floors. The grounds, of course, are stunning with Cyprus trees, umbrella trees, and plane (sycamore) trees along with beautiful lawns and more flowering hydrangea. The house includes a loggia with views to either side of the lake. It’s like a movie set – which is why several recent movies were filmed here. This is where James Bond (Daniel Craig) recovered in his hospital stay in Casino Royale. The loggia was also used in Star Wars in one of the scenes with Anakin and Natalie Portman’s character (Sorry, Star Wars fans. That’s the best I can do!). The last owner was an Italian explorer whose family owned a large department store chain in Milan. The villa was filled with his maps, charts, books and memorabilia from his North Pole exploration and his summit of Mt. Everest. His dog sled was on display in the attic! Maggie particularly loved his collection of etchings of Lake Como. If she straggled from the rest of the tour group, she could be found gazing with longing at the wall full of etchings.

Of course, no trip to see villas on Lake Como is complete without George – you know – The George. Enser very handily Googled info about George which is how we discovered that George Cluny’s villa is near the town of Como – a long distance from Bellagio. Nonetheless, people continually look for his place. So much so that a similar villa in Tremezzo put up a sign on the waterfront reading, “No George!” That sign is as close as we got to a George sighting.

Boating was a fun pastime but we mostly enjoyed sitting by the pool and enjoying the many amenities of our hotel, Hotel Belvedere. The staff was amazing and accommodated every possible need. From the pool and the lounge chairs, we could look out over the lake to the hazy, blue mountains where we watched a float plane practice take offs and landings. The sun could be very hot, but with a dip in the pool, shade and the light breeze it was heaven. A glass of white wine poolside didn’t hurt. There was also a sauna as part of the spa. As I discovered vividly, the saunas are co-ed and there is no expectation for clothing. Oops! There were people here from all over the world. We visited with folks from the US, England, Australia and overheard deep Scottish brogue. Enser struck up a conversation with one of the pool attendants who had visited Baltimore. The poor guy had been lost in Baltimore and made three trips around the beltway in his rental car. It took him seven hours to find his hotel!

The only thing that took us that long was the drive home. Mike was a great driver and seemed to never get tired but maybe a little frustrated with the GPS navigation system took us the wrong way. Maggie and I both love maps so between us we got it sorted out. Lucky for Mike there were TWO women to give him driving directions!


It was hard to leave Lake Como but it was also great to return home to France. Since returning, we’ve discovered that Maggie is a washing maven. Before Mike got out of bed this morning and before I returned from my walk, Maggie was up washing their clothes AND ours! She had the clothes hanging on the line before we knew it. I had to literally race her to the clothes line to put out the next load. It seems that we both like the smell of sun-dried clothes. And every time I look up Enser is sweeping the patio again.

Speaking of Maggie and Enser – we’ve had an excellent visit with them (even without the extra cleaning!). We’ve had wonderful meals on the patio filled with discussions of medicine, world and US politics, and family. Sharing our travels of the last week through Verona and the opera to Lake Como and Bellagio will be an experience that none of us will forget and created a bond that can’t be replaced. The weather, the food, the wine, the shopping, and exploring new towns brought us together with the help of good conversation and sharing life’s experiences – even if we didn’t see George.

Charmed by Verona

It's no wonder that Romeo & Juliet fell in love in Verona. It's easy to fall in love in Verona & easy to fall in love with Verona. It's funny how you can develop an impression about a place almost immediately. There's a feeling you get that colors your impression. For all of us (me and Mike & Maggie and Enser), we were charmed by Verona on first glance.

We drove - actually Mike drove the entire 6 hrs - from Cotignac to Verona & found our hotel without difficulty. We walked to dinner that night & discovered lively, bustling streets full of wonderful shops - some of the best I've seen. Pale stone-like colors & periwinkle blue shutters of France gave way to warm ocher & deep oranges with dark green shutters in Italy. The boulangeries are now pasta shops. Everyone is fashionably dressed. And there is a gelato shop every few feet. Like France, there is no shortage of cute sidewalk restaurants or cafes. We found one for dinner & had a lovely meal with good olive oil & excellent wine.


As we walked back to the hotel we glimpsed the edge of the Roman arena thru the narrow corridor of our street. The arena was lit against the night sky and we could not resist its pull. As we emerged from the little street we found ourselves in a large piazza that encircled the arena. Around the piazza were brightly colored buildings with restaurants glittering in the night. It was a mesmerizing sight and capped by the near full moon overhead. As we strolled around the piazza we found pieces of the set for the upcoming operas. They were stacked outside waiting to be lifted by crane into the arena. It was a magical start to our visit.

The next day was beautiful & I started it with a walk around the perimeter of the old city following the river's edge. Steeples & towers litter the skyline of Verona - giving it more charm. I walked by palazzos of red & cream stone, churches with towering white marble steeples, & river front homes with red geraniums spilling over balconies. Lovely.


We spent the day shopping. At each store I promised it would be my last purchase – and at each store I broke my promise! Many shopping bags later we met Maggie & Enser for lunch in a charming alleyway cafe. The shopping was so good that it was difficult to focus on history. Luckily you literally walk through history in Verona. We strolled under an ancient Roman arch, past an old fortress, Castelvecchio, with a moat and a three arch bridge across the river.
The bridge across the river and the towers of Castelvecchio were like walking back into an era of knights and damsels. All that walking and shopping left us with tired feet. And no trip to Verona would be complete without a visit to Juliet’s balcony.





Shakespeare's play is never far from your mind here. They have taken full advantage of its tourist potential. The first clue that you are near to Juliet’s balcony is the entrance corridor that is completely covered with love notes from all over the world. We were told that you can write a letter to Juliet requesting romantic advice and a cadre of volunteers answers the letters. The balcony, situated in a pretty little courtyard, is like a storybook. It looks just as you would expect – an image that is helped along by the movies filmed here. I had the chance to see Juliet’s balcony during my walk when I was the only one there.
When Mike & I returned I couldn't believe the crowds of people packed into this tiny space - all for a fictional character. Clearly, Juliet or, more likely, the idea of romance resonates with people of all ages and backgrounds. After a bus ride around the city it was time for a nap & preparing for the main event - Aida.


Aida and other operas are performed in the old Roman arena. The arena seats about 20,000. The general admissions seats are on the original marble stadium seats. Thankfully, we had reserved seats in cushioned chairs on the floor a few rows from the stage. The performance is open air & is immediately cancelled in the event of rain. If the performance starts before the rain hits there are no refunds. We held our breath & sent out good thoughts for a clear night (weather forecasts were iffy) & we got it. It was perfect- warm, a slight breeze, & dry.


It's hard to describe the thrill of walking into this first century arena. Our entrance was through thick, rich, red curtains and on a red carpet. It was moment I won't forget. Maggie & I were almost giddy with excitement. How fortunate we are to have the opportunity to be in Verona, Italy at a performance like this. We had fabulous seats, close enough to watch the conductor wave at the musicians and feel him stomp his feet during dramatic parts. The stage was set with huge props. The centerpiece was a large, gold pyramid that rotated for scene changes. Opera clearly transcends countries and we heard excited voices in languages from around the world as people milled about before the start. Everyone was dressed up for a special evening. And we weren't disappointed.


Neither Mike nor I are opera buffs and still we were moved by the music & grandeur of the production. The arena is the largest opera venue in the world & serious connoisseurs attend regularly. The costumes were elaborate & the cast numbered more than one hundred. When the full chorus sang they filled the arena with rich, deep sound. The soloists, too, with no microphones filled up the space with sound & emotion. You felt Aida's sadness & grief through her singing. Of course, the triumphal march was - triumphal.

As the performers sang their arias there was one particular audience member who would shout “bravo!” after a notable performance. He knew his stuff. At the end of the opera he summed up the experience with a shout heard throughout the arena – “Viva Verdi!”


One of the wonderful things about Italy is the close proximity to many wonderful towns. In this case, we were an hour train ride to Venice. Who could resist that? We journeyed over the next morning and spent part of the day wandering the streets of Venice and browsing shops, sipping coffee and tea, and nibbling on little sweets. All of us had been to Venice before – in the off season – and were taken by surprise by the crowds there on a beautiful Saturday in June. We weren’t thinking very clearly! But, still, Venice is captivating. The only disappointment was the prevalence of huge advertising billboards placed over many of the major attractions. We were horrified to see all sides (left, right, above and below) of the Bridge of Signs covered with huge adds. I can’t imagine the costs of maintaining all these beautiful buildings in such a difficult environment. The advertising income is probably a big help, but I couldn’t help but feel they’d taken it too far. It felt like part of the soul of Venice had been sold.
(left, right, above, and below) of the Bridge of Sighs covered with advertisements.


It's been great to share our experience in Verona and at the opera with Maggie and Enser. And our adventures didn't stop there. We left for Lake Como this morning but not before I got in one more beautiful walk around the city alongside the river. It is truly a lovely place. As I walked, there came a strong whiff of something sweet and somehow familiar in the air. I was under a row of magnolia trees with blooms open to the sun. The fragrance took me to Texas – home.


Before we left for Verona, we took a day trip thru the lavender fields just north of Cotignac. On our way we stopped at one of the better wineries in the area. Between us we bought a box of wine. Enser said he felt like Bacchus! It is almost peak time for lavender & the harvest starts in mid July. We had no idea what to expect & were thrilled with our first sight of a lavender field - row after row of mounded lavender plants. With the windows down, we could smell their fragrance as we drove. Purple alternated with the pale, straw color of wheat fields. One of our discoveries was amazing lavender ice cream in Riez – we will be back!
We spent so much time in the lavender shops in Valensole that we missed our window for lunch. It was a Monday & few places were open. We found a restaurant that agreed to serve us if we'd all eat their special - lasagna. “Yes” was the only answer. It turned out to be good & we enjoyed sitting outside on a lovely day. The unexpected surprise was that our waiter who also seemed to run the restaurant was wearing a Waldorf t-shirt!
Yes - Waldorf, MD. What are the odds? He said the shirt was not his and he had no idea were Waldorf was. He was surprised at our incredulous reactions but he was more than happy to pose for a photo with me and Maggie!

We finished our drive thru Moustiers, a lovely town wedged into the cliffs of the Verdon. There is a large bridge that spans the gorge & we stopped for one final photo - or so we thought. Just as we began to get back in the car to go home we heard all this racket- clanging & rattling. Mike said it sounded like a tiki bar. I looked over the bridge & thought I saw a peloton of cyclists headed our way. But no! It was a herd of sheep & goats, many with bells around their necks. There were a few people walking with them but they were being managed & herded by a small black & white sheep dog. We were transfixed - first by seeing sheep walking down a main road & second by this dog. He was one hardworking little guy! And his job got worse when the herd cleared the bridge & the sheep tried to wander up the hillside. He kept them in line!





Before I go and enjoy the amazing scenery of Lake Como, I offer one final reflection. We frequently hear remarks about our “vacation,” and I hear myself describe it as a “grand vacances” lacking any other term. But each time I pause. Somehow being in France doesn't feel like a vacation - but why not? After pondering it for awhile I think I've hit on it. We relocated our lives to France and don’t view ourselves as visitors or tourists. We live here. We make an effort to attend village events & meet people in the shops - hardware, bakery, ice cream, restaurants & vineyards. We want to be participants in life here. We're learning our favorite farmers at the markets & recognize the regulars at the various bars. It feels different from when we are tourists, seeing the sights, having an experience, buying souvenirs & returning home. We've done some of that since we’ve been here but we feel more like residents now than visitors. And that’s just the way we want it to be.