For years, we dreamed about taking the Orient Express train. Mike loves trains and this one is supposedly the best. The Orient Express conjures up images of old-world luxury, and, of course, Agatha Christie. We were so intent on riding the Orient Express that we scheduled all of our return travel plans around the train dates from Bangkok to Singapore. It would be four days and three nights on the Eastern and Orient Express.
We’ve had many exciting moments during our ten months of travel, and yet, occasionally there are special moments that seem unreal. Walking along the train platform next to the dark green and gold train bearing the gleaming words in brass, “Eastern and Orient Express,” was one of those “pinch me” moments. Impeccably attired staff in deep green and red Thai silk dresses and vests stood outside to welcome us aboard along green and gold carpet.
I knew Mike would love this trip but, I admit, it caught me by surprise. I was captivated the moment we stepped on board. We boarded the “G” car to find a picture-perfect train car – long narrow hallway, frilly lights overhead and wood parquet walls and doors. I felt like I was in a movie walking down that hallway in search of our cabin. The glass fronted door opened into our compartment. It was a calming, comforting feast. The parquet walls had inlaid designs behind the cushy upholstered sofa and chair. Two, large curtained windows faced the train station. It was small (although we somehow ended up with a larger cabin than we expected – and it was a blessing) but wonderfully appointed - even the tiny bathroom with thick white towels bearing the E&O emblem.
We like many others hurried to the open-air observation car to watch as we pulled out of the station. Even now, I feel the excitement of that moment. People on the platform waved and smiled as we – those most fortunate ones – rode away in our green and gold carriages. It was an auspicious beginning.
We boarded late in the afternoon so before we knew it we had to dress for dinner. Encouraged to dress up for dinner, Mike donned his new custom-made suit, me a little, black dress and off we went to our reserved table in the dining car. The dining car had large windows opening to Bangkok as it receded away. White clad tables with graceful lamps and vases of orchids, held crystal, silver and the E&O china. Service was attentive- the best I’ve ever experienced. The French chef ensured that the food was excellent! After dinner there was a cup of coffee and tea in the piano bar before turning in for our first night on the train. Our cabin had been made into two twin beds with crisp white sheets carefully turned down so that the E&O emblem was on top in the center. Delightful. We snuggled and fantasy met reality.
The Eastern and Orient Express started in Thailand, passed through Malaysia into Singapore – three countries. Importantly, we were running on train tracks built and maintained by three countries. We quickly discovered that track standards are not what they are in – say, France for the TGV. We rocked and rolled, jerked and jolted through the night. I finally fell asleep when the train stopped for several hours only to wake with a start when it jerked to life again. Neither of us – or anyone else on the train, including the staff – slept much that evening. Plus, we got up early to see the train cross the 300 meter wooden trestle bridge hugging the rock cliff. The trestle was build as part of the Thai-Burma railway in World War II. 
This was the so called “Death Railway” because it was built by prisoners of war and local Thai and Malay people desperate for jobs.
Bleary-eyed and tired, we disembarked the train which was parked partially on the bridge over the river Kwai (yes, the one from the movie). We boarded a large raft that was towed up the Kwai River under the bridge while we were given a walk about the war and the construction of the railroad. The visit concluded at the railroad museum that clearly described the deplorable conditions for the workers. 
More than 80,000 Malay and Thai workers died during construction. Prisoners died too but not in these numbers. Across the street from the museum was the cemetery for British and Dutch soldiers. It was beautifully maintained. A Thai woman was scrubbing individual grave stones. The train staff had given each of us a handmade flower wreath to place on a grave - a lovely gesture.
Time can get long on a three day train journey so there were several entertainment options. There was a piano player in the evenings in the saloon car, a reading car with an astrologer, a tropical fruit tasting, Thai music and Thai dancing. We tried it all. Since Mike had his fortune told in Istanbul via coffee grounds, I chose to try the astrologer. She read my palm and predicted a long and happy life. She said that I'm very responsible and organized, sometimes too much so. And Mike's favorite - I have a good-looking husband. How'd she know?!
The afternoon of our second day we stopped at Penang, Malaysia. We saw the Khoo Konsi Chinese temple and had a trishaw (a three-wheeled bicycle pedaled by a tiny, old man) ride through the streets to the historic Eastern & Oriental Hotel (not affiliated with the train).
The service throughout was exceptional. Beautiful women wore outfits typical of each country – Thailand (dark green and red silks), Malaysia (pink silks) and Singapore (bright red silks). Our steward served us breakfast and afternoon tea in our cabin, made the room for day and night, and fulfilled every request. He was polite, kind and deferential. I’ve never been “Madam-ed” so much – “Excuse me, Madam,” “Thank you, Madam,” “You’re welcome, Madam.”
All of this was background of the most pampered kind, but my main memories will be of the evolving scenery as we traversed from Thailand, Malaysia and Singapore. Everything changed as we traveled – the scenery, the agriculture and the lifestyles.
Thailand was filled initially with vast swaths of green rice fields with white cranes flying low overhead, as well as, tapioca and coconut trees. These changed to rubber and banana trees in the southern part of the country. People here were poor.
The landscape was dotted with skinny, Brahma cows laying on the side of the road, under a coconut tree, or next to a ramshackled trash-strewn house. Pampered and well cared for, it was a jolt to see barefoot children run from hovels to laugh and wave at the train. It felt great to see their joy but the differences is our circumstances was stark. Our fare was more than they would make in a year. Stopped at a station, eating breakfast in our private car with a silver tea and coffee pot on the table, it was difficult to look out at the people gazing in awe at our train. It felt shockingly unequal and unfair.
In southern Thailand and Malaysia, craggy limestone cliffs rose abruptly from the flat farm land. At the narrowest part of the peninsula we glimpsed the South China Sea with its white beaches and waves washing ashore. It was beautiful and a little frustrating since photography from the back of a moving train is iffy at best. Sometimes leaves and branches brushed our hands as we held tight to the brass railings. Leaning out was definitely NOT a good idea.
Agriculture changed first to rubber trees then to palm trees for palm oil production with hill after rolling hill of palm trees. Houses in Malaysia seemed to improve and the debris decreased. Dark skinned workers toiling in the perpetual sunshine. Most people traveled on motorbikes – some had sidecars for hauling equipment. Other times whole families were piled on the narrow seat. I saw a young woman with her toddler standing in a compartment between the handle bars holding on.
And then we reached Singapore. All trash disappeared, roads improved, agricultural production ceased, and skyscrapers soared. It was as though we entered a tropical garden with elephant ear plants the size of umbrellas. The difference was dramatic.
My other memory of the Orient Express will be the rocking train. We traveled the length of the train to the wood-lined observation car with its brass railings. Walking down the narrow corridors with the train swaying and jerking along we bounced and jostled from wall to wall like a pin ball. Everyone good naturedly waited at the end of cars so that others could pass. We’d hang off the back of the train watching the scenery go by in the warm, humid breeze that left our skin slightly sticky as our hair whipped around in the wind.
The second night the tracks were still rough. It felt like we were bouncing along a gravel road. Sleep was marginal again. The last night traveling through Malaysia was better but still difficult. Mike tucked the sheets around him like a sleeping bag to keep from rolling out of bed. Even beautifully appointed, our cabin began to feel confining after 36 hours. It was certainly possible to live, shower and dress in the small compartment but difficult after a time. The small shower was challenging as I was tossed from side to side. Mike kept hitting his head on the mirror when he leaned forward to brush his teeth. And then there was putting on mascara. The waiters were gifted at pouring water, wine and coffee while moving to and fro.
It was a wonderful experience. And I was ready to get off the train when we arrived in Singapore. We rejoiced when we reached our spacious hotel room in Singapore. The bed didn’t move and I could open my arms and not touch the walls of the bathroom. What joy!
Our burl wood-paneled room, the attentive, impeccably clad staff, the ambiance of care and luxury while zipping through ever-changing tropical landscapes – it all adds up to the Orient Express; that, and bouncing our way along the narrow corridors.
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