The Magic Bus

This blog is a companion to the following blog, "A Special Blog for Teddy"




Our friends, Mindi and Steve, Sharyn and Tommy and their 11 year old son, Teddy, visited us last week. We had an amazing time together and the week was go, go, go – or as they say in French – allez, allez, allez.

It all started with the Magic Bus which, over the week, lived up to its name. They reserved a van that would hold the seven of us, but, when they arrived at the Nice airport, the van was broken. Rather than wait, they accepted the larger mini-bus which became the Magic Bus.

Tommy piloted the Magic Bus to Cotignac in time to walk into the village for mussels and fries at the boule court. We almost overwhelmed them, but the organizers (it’s a fund raiser for the local boule tournament) quickly rallied and in ten minutes had steaming bowls of mussels and hot fries for us all. Yummy food for exhausted travelers.

The first trip on the Magic Bus was to the Saturday morning market at Aups. We explored the market, shopped for dinner together and stopped for lunch at the charming town of TourTour. That evening, Mike worked his own magic with a lovely dinner which we enjoyed on the patio, under the linden tree overlooking the valley. It was delightful and a wonderful start to our time together.



The girls did an excursion to the lavender fields around Riez. It was the peak time for the lavender, in fact, next week the lavender will be harvested and at the distilleries. But this week – the lavender was simply stunning. We took photos and trekked into the town of Riez where we discovered a Renaissance festival. There were lots of vendors with lavender scented goodies and made for fun shopping. After lunch and a taste of lavender ice cream we headed to Moustiers for some final shopping. It’s a charming town and we all came away with typical local pottery. Of course, the best part was spending the day together, talking, laughing and making memories. The road home took us over the bridge across the end of the Gorges du Verdon where we could see canoes, kayaks and paddle boats floating up the blue waters into the gorge and into the mouth of the lake. It looked refreshing and like loads of fun- an activity for another day!

While we were at the lavender fields, the boys had their own eventful day. They hiked around town and to the local waterfall where Tommy and Teddy eased their way into the cold, blue water. We heard tales of their adventures climbing the rock walls and jumping into the pool under the falls. They had a blast and their excitement was evident in the energy with which they told the stories.



But the day wasn’t over yet! It was the night of the World Cup final. We arrived at the Modern Bar in time to nab one of the three booths and settle in for the game. We ordered pizza takeout from the restaurant across the Cours. Soon, the place was full including a group of women dressed in the Netherlands construction-worker orange. They had a ball! They sang songs, waved flags, fussed at the referees, and slammed down a stream of beers. In other words – it was like a sporting event in the US! The Spanish fans were more subdued although there were “discussions” between them and the women from the Netherlands who proclaimed in their accented English, “If I cheer for Spain my whole vacation will be bullshit!” As the Spanish fans cheered their historic win, they, good naturedly, joined in with singing and waving Spanish flags. Being in a stuffy, non-descript bar with pizza boxes strewn across the table, drinking rose wine from the tap (and a “baby whiskey”) somehow made me feel like more of a participant. We watched as this event that galvanized the world was brought down to a local scale. It was a big day for Teddy – the best so far, he said, but he could not have foreseen what else was in store.



The Magic Bus was pressed into to service the next day. The gang loaded up and drove to the beaches of Bandol on the Mediterranean. Mike and I chose to stay home, relax, and putter around the house. Our big event was the harvesting of Mike's first tomato which we promptly ate! They all returned about 10PM filled with stories of their day on the beach and finding little restaurants along the way. They had a great time!

After a late morning, long walk and leisurely lunch, we piled into the Magic Bus for the short trip to the Gorge du Verdon and the paddle boats. There was still a long wait for paddle boats so we opted for three canoes and a single person kayak which Tommy took. Thankfully, he stayed close by to rescue me and Mike. Mike and I had managed to have both of us sitting in the front of our canoe so that, no matter which way we paddled, we went in a circle! Tommy sorted us out and it worked much better!

The water flowing through the gorge was the pale blue-green of glacier fed lakes and provided a refreshing contrast to the heat of the afternoon. It felt soothing to be between the soaring rock walls of the gorge with cool water running down my arms as I paddled. We saw waterfalls cascading over the rock face and people scrambling up to jump off. There were lots of other boats trying to navigate the narrow gorge. At times it was like bumper cars! Teddy swapped boats with his dad so that he had the kayak by himself. He paddled his way back to the dock and beat us all there!

And, finally, the big event – the Tour de France. Steve and Tommy are avid cyclists and followers of the Tour. Teddy, too, is the veteran of the 100 mile Seagull Century bike race. Mindi, Sharyn and I biked in the metric century and Mike follows the Tour each year since the first time we saw it in 1999. Needless to say, we were all excited about the prospect of seeing the Tour. But viewing the Tour is not the easiest thing. First you have to find the specific route – they ride very small back roads – and then pick a likely spot that you can drive to, find a place to park before the roads are closed, and sit for hours. It was with a sense of adventure and expectation that we all climbed into the Magic Bus at 9AM that morning in hopes of seeing the Tour about 4PM that afternoon. We chose to try for a location approaching the Col de Noyer – the largest hill climb for that stage - hoping they would be more spread out and moving more slowly.

The Col de Noyer is the start of the French Alps. We drove almost three hours into increasingly more spectacular scenery as we climbed into the mountains. About noon, we got to the road that we thought was the Tour route. There were already people and cars around. We confirmed with a walker that we were, at that moment, stopped on the Tour route. I felt thrilled and relieved that we had found the right place, but little did I know what was to come.

There is no way to avoid a long wait at the Tour. We planned for it and everyone was in a festive and expectant mood. After parking the Magic Bus…not an insignificant feat….we started walking the course into the village of St. Etienne to find our Spot. The road was small and winding with a mountain face on one side and a deep gorge immediately on the other. Sharyn couldn’t look down! Ultimately, we ate our lunches – sandwiches of roasted turkey on fresh baguettes a la Michael – on a rock wall in St. Etienne. As we ate, the first of the team cars started rolling past! That’s when I realized that no matter what else happened, we would indeed get to see the Tour. Now, it was just a matter of finding the perfect vantage point.

After walking up and down the course, eyeing it from different angles, Steve helped us decide on a spot where we could see them approaching down a slight curve, across a bridge and start the climb up the mountain. We were wedged on a ledge next to guardrail – not the most scenic spot except for a stunning view of the mountains – but it proved to be perfect. Now, it was time to wait. We had backpacks with water and soda, trail mix and sunscreen. We needed it all. The sun was intense. I found myself rotating like a chicken on a spit to even out the sun exposure. Thank goodness for sunscreen!



During the wait, there was a steady stream of team and sponsor vehicles zipping by, honking horns and waving to the people lining the route. There wasn’t an empty spot along the roadside. The passing vehicles kept up an air of anticipation but nothing prepared us for the fun and mayhem of the caravan! The caravan is a semi-organized procession for wild, wacky, sponsor cars. There were cars that looked like a rubber duck, a bottle of water, tires, among others. They throw trinkets to the expectant race fans lining the road. We shouted, waved and jumped for junk in the hopes of catching something. Our haul included 4 Carrefour hats (red and white polka dots), 2 LCL hats (yellow), 4 Skoda hats (white), 1 tee shirt (on Teddy), 4 PMU magnets, 2 bottle openers, 3 key chains, and an assortment of candy, biscuits, cookies, and even a packet of sausage. It was great fun to participate in the excitement…plus, it helped to pass the time. It wasn’t long before the concession trucks came by selling Tour de France souvenirs. Four trucks worked the course. As one stopped, the others pulled ahead a few yards. They continued skipping their way along the course selling from the back of the trucks. It was efficient and effective. In a matter of minutes, we all bought our souvenir packet – yellow hat, yellow shirt, yellow headband, key chain, wrist bands, and playing cards!








The heat from the sun and all the cars and trucks left the pavement seeping with hot asphalt and missing chunks in the middle of the road. We watched as a water truck came by to cool the pavement in advance of the riders. A steady stream of police motorcycles, TV and radio station vehicles with masses of antenna on top, and sponsor and team cars started arriving. Still, no cyclists. Then, as Mike predicted, we heard the helicopters. We saw them in the valley some distance away. Motorcycles carrying photographers wheeled up, parked, took some shots and motored away. Finally, after all the waiting, and, almost as in a dream, the lead pack of cyclists came around the bend. Even now – days later – the emotions flood back. We were about to see amazing athletes in a one-of-a-kind event, and, most importantly, we were sharing it with friends who were having the time of their lives. There is nothing to compare to that feeling.



We screamed and yelled as a group of about six cyclists came across the bridge below us and rounded the bend to climb the hill. We looked straight into their faces as they leaned into their bikes and the power in their legs propelled them up, up, up. It happens so quickly, we could barely tell which teams were represented in the group. There was no time to think as, right on their heels, the team cars zipped past, bunched together on the narrow road with spare bikes and wheels mounted on top of the cars. Keep in mind – these are not Schwinns. These bikes are specially made for the riders and the Tour. The materials are lightweight and strong. The bikes are cared for – as we were to see – meticulously. For cycling aficionados, it is a thrill to see machines of this quality as was evident from Steve and Tommy’s reaction. From now on, each time I see a cycling event I will remember Steve yelling, “Look at the bikes! Just look at all the bikes!”

We had about ten minutes laugh, cry and excitedly talk about what we’d just seen. What teams were in the break away group? Who were the riders? Who was leading? One of the riders was from the Radio Shack Team. For those who may not follow the Tour, Lance Armstrong rides for Radio Shack. By this stage, however, Lance was not a contender to win, but all of us hold a special sentiment for him – whether for the attention he brought to cycling in the US or the work he has done raising money to fight cancer. Even if he wasn’t going to win, we still rooted for Team Radio Shack.



Our focus returned to the course waiting for the first glimpse the next riders. You never know what the Tour holds. The next cyclists could have been another small group or the entire peleton. Since we had no media access, we had no way to know how the stage was unfolding. And then, there they were. The first riders came into view, one behind the other, spreading into more and more cyclists as their numbers consumed the entire road. It was the full peleton – all of the remaining riders in the Tour. What a moment! We watched about one hundred of the top cyclists in the world come across the bridge and start the climb. It was like seeing the films from the Tour but, this time, it was real. The seconds feel desperately trying to absorb it all. The teams were clumped together protecting their lead rider. Andy Schleck was in the middle with his yellow jersey. A cheer erupted from us as we picked out the Radio Shack team and saw Lance’s jersey. All of these riders were at the front of the peleton where they only took up the center of the road. The rest where literally inches away. Sharyn and I were backed into the guardrail as they pedaled by only inches away! It was the thrill of a lifetime.

Check out Mike's video of the peleton. Tommy is next to Mike and the rest of us are on the other side of the road jumping up and down and yelling.



And then, they were gone. Just like that. We looked at each other - laughing, smiling, and hugging with no worries about our hot, sweaty bodies. There were sounds of joy and excited jabbering as we compared stories of who and what we’d seen. It was a celebration of an event and a memory made and shared with friends. What a day.



Back at the Magic Bus we toasted the day as we prepared for the long drive home. But, all was not well with the Magic Bus. It appeared that we were very low on gas – in the middle of the mountains, with few villages, and slow moving traffic ahead. The nice police officers advised us to go to St. Etienne – but the road was closed. We’d have to wait - a small price to pay for the experience of the day. Except, when we finally got to the gas station, it was closed. Now, however, the Magic Bus magically indicated a quarter tank of gas. We, belatedly, joined the other cars driving down the mountain. The riders, by now, had finished the course at Gap and were on their way to rest for the next day’s race. We, on the other hand, headed for the nearest gas station.

We found one outside of Gap. As we pulled in, across the street at a small hotel, were the Cofidis buses! Cofidis is one of the cycling teams. Apparently, their team was staying at the hotel by the gas station. We left Steve to fill the tank as we rushed over. Talk about icing on the cake! Here was the bus for the team and the bus for the bikes. The Cofidis staff were busy disassembling, washing and repairing bikes. The bike frames, with the names of each rider, were lined up alongside the road where we could look at them up close. Steve decided that he aspires to be a tire washer for the Tour in his next life! AND, Teddy had his picture taken with one of the Cofidis riders! Unbelievable. I don’t know how the Magic Bus knew to misinform us about the gas, but if it hadn’t we would have missed the experience.

With stunned and happy faces, we reboarded the Magic Bus. By now, it was early evening so we decided to stop in Sisteron for dinner. Sisteron was the starting point for the stage the following day. It seemed like fun to see the preparations for the next stage. It was a good choice.

We pulled off the freeway onto the small side street that leads to Sisteron. That’s when we saw them. The Radio Shack buses! Tommy was in the back and yelled to Steve, “Stop the f….g bus!” Now we’re all yelling, “Stop, stop!” Conveniently, there was a parking area directly across the street. As before, this was the hotel where Team Radio Shack was staying. We rushed over and, there, lined up, were all the bikes for the Radio Shack team. The mechanic was working on number 21 – Lance Armstrong’s bike. Oh my. He must have felt sorry for us as we clustered around, gawking and pointing. He called to Teddy and gave him a Team Radio Shack tee shirt. I was in tears. How…..how could this day have been any better? Well, …the winner of that day’s stage could walk up – which he did! Unbeknownst to us, Sergio Paulinho from Radio Shack won the day and boosted the team to the third spot. He walked up, still in his cycling clothes, amid hugs from his Radio Shack teammates. As we stared, slack-jawed, the sponsor manager, Glen Kasin, started a conversation with us. Wow. As it turns out, Glen is from Austin and has a friend in Smithville– what are the odds?! He was wonderful. He told us about the team standings and gave us inside information about how an event of this magnitude is managed – from dieticians who customize diets for each rider, their fluid intake (3 liters immediately after the race), and how one rider, in particular, functions on Coke and Snickers bars. He patiently answered our questions, but what I’ll remember the most is his graciousness. How many people does he talk to in a day? – And yet, at the end of his work day, he smiled and shared his knowledge with a Magic Bus load of American tourists. It reflects well on him, his team and the Tour. Plus, it made an already rich experience astounding. We left dazed trying to absorb it all. The Tour alone would have been enough, and yet we saw the Cofidis team and, were made to feel welcome by the Radio Shack Team. This is what being blessed by the Universe looks like.

Of course, dinner was filled with recaps of our day and personal reflections, while they set up the tents for the next day’s start behind us. The ancient towers of Sisteron, hung with huge yellow and green jerseys, and the old fortress on the hill made a breath-taking backdrop. With stomachs and hearts full, Magic Bus driver, Steve, took us home.

A tired group pulled into Cotignac about midnight, only to be stopped at the main street. In all our excitement, we’d almost forgotten that it was Bastille Day! The Cours was filled with people, a band was playing, and fireworks were exploding. This was not just any fireworks display! They were fired from the ground, across the street from the crowds of people, by a man who was lighting them with a match! Sparks were flying and the air was filled with smoke and the smell of sulfur! As the crowd cheered, we watched fireworks reflected in the windows and waited. It was somehow a fitting end to the day. The band was playing “In the Mood” as we walked up the driveway admiring the sky full of stars. Sharyn frequently asks Teddy, “Is it a good day to be Teddy Collinson?” Today, she didn’t need to ask. It was a good day to be any one of us.

Our week was filled with activities and a never-to-be-forgotten day at the Tour de France. But mostly, it was filled with togetherness. We walked, talked, ate, and laughed. I was surrounded by the energy from my “girls.” I experienced France through the eyes of an astute 11 (nearly 12) year old, and enjoyed the companionship of dear friends. We have shared memories that will forever be a bond. The Magic Bus returned to the airport this morning, but the magic of the memories float in the air around me and the magic of the friendships stretch around the world. It’s not about the bike, or the bus, or the trip. It’s about the love, affection and sharing between special people...and the Magic Bus helped.